The wine regions of the Rhône Valley divide logically into north and south. North is dominated by the Syrah grape (known as Shiraz in Australia and South Africa), south by Grenache. Both are red wine varieties: the Rhône's reputation is founded on red wines.
The great reds of the northern Rhône are Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, followed by Cornas and St-Joseph, and, finally, Crozes-Hermitage. Côte-Rôtie is memorable for its seductive raspberry perfume, sometimes the result of a small amount of white Viognier in the blend. Hermitage is massive, intense wine that ages brilliantly and is a great partner for rich, game dishes. Cornas is solid and tannic, St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage, raspberry-fruity and charming.
There are white wines, too. In the northern Rhône, the outstanding variety is Viognier, grape of Condrieu and Château-Grillet, one of France's smallest appellations. Viognier at its best makes wonderfully aromatic white wine, full of peach, apricot and almond flavour. The other two important northern Rhône grapes are Marsanne and Roussanne. Marsanne is rich and soft, Roussanne, fresh and lively (but little planted these days, because of low yields). These are the grapes of white Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and St-Joseph, but very little white is made in these appellations.
In the southern Rhône, more white Châteauneuf-du-Pape is made now, instead of blending the local white grapes (Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Picardan and Picpoul) in with the red (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsaut, Muscardin, Vaccarèse, Counoise and Terret Noir). Yes, there really are 13 grapes permitted in red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but most estates use only four or five. But the most important is Grenache, which ripens to give wines of high alcohol, often blended with Syrah and/or Mourvèdre to provide more fruit and backbone.
Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Lirac and most of the Côtes-du-Rhône reds are also dominated by Grenache. As are Côtes du Ventoux, Côtes du Vivarais, Côtes du Lubéron and Coteaux du Tricastin, all good-value, mainly red wine areas in and around the Rhône valley. Côte-du-Rhône Villages refers to wines from top villages in the region. Best-known are Beaumes-de-Venise (also famous for its sweet fortified Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise), Cairanne, Rasteau, Valréas and Vinsobres.
There is some rosé in the Rhône, too. Tavel is a village best known for its Grenache-based rosé, weighty stuff, often 14 per cent alcohol or more. Other oddities are the sparkling Clairette de Die, dominated by Muscat in the sweetish 'Tradition' version, and St-Péray, another sparkling wine, made mostly from Marsanne.
